The Truth About It

I've got my head back in the game as well as my legs. Allow me to explain what I mean, as well as the lack of actual content here at hikernation.net in the past month.

Come and get it.

The CDT, for a variety of reasons, was (is) kicking my butt. The late season snows here in Colorado, coupled with a relatively cool Spring, has led to some seriously difficult hiking conditions. I (and fellow hikers Analog and Wantsum) chose to take a good deal of time off and see if we could simply allow the snow to melt out. It worked.

However, in doing so, their were a few side effects. Physically, my body, specifically my feet, reverted to early trail conditions. That is, I began getting blisters and other such pains that I typically do not experience after the first month of hiking. The biggest issue involved my mental state and motivation. We would hike four or five days, and then take three off. During these off days we saw live music, mingled with locals, drank beer, ate great food, (spent too much money), and had a good time. However, such a schedule threw me into a strange cycle of hiking only to make it to the next town, as opposed to hiking for the sake of hiking.

I contemplated quitting this hike on many occasions throughout the last month.

Simply put, I don't believe the Continental Divide Trail is designed to be thru-hiked.

Yes, I understand, the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail were not "designed" to be thru-hiked either. In fact, the concept of hiking either of these trails in their entirety in a single season left those involved with the projects stunned. However, they are both completed trails and the weather windows on each of them is much more forgiving that here on the Continental Divide.

The Continental Divide Trail leaves would be thru-hikers with a potentially brutal and variable weather window as well as a variety of unpleasant route choices.

Having a late snow season here in Colorado has been tough. And it has also set most of us hikers behind our intended schedules. If things play out I still believe this trail can be finished this season -- if, we don't also get slammed with early snow in northern Montana. Secondly, the trail design itself can be tedious, physically and mentally. At times you will be tasked with endless road-walks, sometimes on forest roads, but often on the side of busy highways. On other times the "trail" will take the concept of hiking the divide very literally and put you on a high ridge line, without any actual trail, for days on end without barely dropping below treeline. The views may be spectacular, both to the east and west as you straddle the divide, but it leaves a hiker with no shelter or camp options within easy access. Add in the daily thunder storms and nightly rains, and it becomes a stress inducing route, often forcing us to dive down to lower elevation to avoid lightning strikes in the afternoon and to ensure safe camping at night (only then to again climb back up to elevation at a safer time to continue forward movement). It has become nearly impossible to estimate daily mileage and therefor plan food and logistics accordingly. Not only is the Continental Divide Trail difficult for us bipeds, but it's tough living for everyone. The amount of dead animals / animal remains we encounter on a daily basis is remarkable!

It's for these reasons, that I have been somewhat tight lipped concerning the progress of my trip.

It has been difficult for me to write about this hike and this trail without being certain as to how long I would continue along it.

I am glad to say that in the past ten days, things have been going much more smoothly. We are now in Steamboat Springs, CO, headed down out of the high elevations and into Wyoming. I've been on trail for two and a half months now, and my head is back in the game, ready for whatever may be next. With Colorado nearly behind us things should continue forward in a relatively smoother manner.

Have I mentioned though, it has been beautiful!

Analog climbs a peak along the Gore Range.

Photoset: Colorado Border to Copper Mtn.

Photos from the last month or so of hiking. Colorado / New Mexico border up to Copper Mtn, CO. Click 'em to see it all in full size!

Creede, CO.

Wantsum headed to FIBARK. First In Boats, Arkansas River Festival.

Philosophy

Hiking north from Ghost Ranch, NM. Wantsum, Analog, and Smiles.

The Continental Divide Trail has been difficult.

I once believed I was a great hiker. I am no longer certain of it, but I try. And I do what I can to be safe.

With the snow levels right now, being safe has meant cutting mileage and setting up camp  early in the evening in order to prevent having to camp on high elevation ridge lines. It's smart. And it's slow. It's meant having to call it a day because the alternate we took to avoid snow included a river crossing which was absolutely impassable. Sure, we avoided some snow, maybe. But the snow up top was melting so rapidly that the river was chest deep and flowing at an incredible rate. We were defeated, scared, and uncertain how we would cross, if ever. So we camped, hoping that over night the snow would freeze over therefor reducing morning water levels. It did. We crossed a less dangerous river and continued north. Slowly.

We hike with wet shoes for the entire day. We wake up to frozen boots most mornings. It isn't pleasant, but after ten minutes of walking yours shoes will thaw and your feet will warm.

We've taken a great deal of zero days (days in which we do not hike). This strategy has left me feeling like less of a hiker and more often a tourist, but it's smart. And slow. Hopefully much of the snow will melt out and I will be able to make up the lost mileage later in the journey.

Philosophy.

The trail, all trails, are nature based experiences. However, they are nearly equal parts personal and interpersonal experiences. The trail winds from mountain to mountain and between these ranges lie (usually) quaint little towns. It's important to me to interact and be a part of these places. To meet people and do things besides hike and sleep. In the past two weeks I've worked at a folk and bluegrass festival, bar hopped with locals, slept in peoples backyards and living rooms, hitch hiked, and am now attending FIBark (First In Boats Arkansas River Festival) here in Salida, CO. We hooked up with a incredible couple who hiked a large portion of the Pacific Crest last year and have allowed us to stay at their relatives home. They also prepared the best breakfast I've had on the entire trail! To me, experiencing and being open to such kindness is a large portion of why I hike.

It isn't, and cannot be, nature or people. The two concepts are absolutely linked. We live on this planet and we consume the goods that it provides for us. To consider one without the other is an absolutely useless endeavor.

So my forward progress is limited. And in truth, the concept of completing the entire trail and becoming a "triple crowner" has shifted. Those are great things, but they are ego-based. I'd like to complete the trail, and I would like to call myself a Triple Crowner. But I cannot, and will not, rush forward into poor conditions that put myself at risk in order to achieve them. My desire to finish this trail is not greater than my desire to enjoy nature and experience the absolutely vital human elements.

I do believe I will finish, but at the moment, I have a men's professional freestyle kayaking tournament to attend.


* Sorry about the old photo featured on top. It has no snow, and I wish that was the way the trail looked currently. I'm having an issue uploading new ones at the moment. But, it is a killer shot, isn't it?