Extremes

The Continental Divide Trail is a trail of extremes. In the past ten days we have traveled from mountains, to desert, and back into the thick of it in the Wind River Range again.

Here's a look at the geographic changes and unpredictable weather of the Wyoming section of the CDT.

Analog, Wantsum, Chimp and Tootsie headed down the road north of Rawlins, WY.

We left Colorado and crossed into Wyoming. Mountains were abundant, but we descended more than we climbed. Shortly, almost as if looking over the edge of the Earth, the range descended into nothing but desert.

We found ourselves on the edge of the Great Basin.

What is the Great Basin? Well, it's a geological oddity (as far as I'm concerned) found along the Continental Divide where, essentially, the Divide splits into halves and makes a great big circle around a low lying area within. Hence, the name, "Great Basin". Rather than walking the circuitous route, the Continental Divide Trail takes hikers straight on through it. For much of the Great Basin portion of the CDT, you will travel, literally, straight through it.

Water sources are scarce and shade is almost nonexistent. A 50 mile stretch did occur without the sight of a single tree. However, we did find the water sources that did exist to be much cleaner and more reliable than we had anticipated.

If you haven't seen my latest video, click here to see (and hear) what it looks like to hike the Basin!

Extreme environments yield extreme consequences.

Not expecting any rainfall while traveling through the Basin, the trail went ahead and pulled another fast one on us.

We were met with a day of high winds, low temperatures, and steady rainfall. While we were scorched for the previous three days, suddenly we were doing everything in our power to stay warm. Dry was out of the question, at that point.

As quickly as the Great Basin appeared before us, it seemed to disappear as we suddenly climbed into the foothills of the Wind River Range.

Towering mountains, fields of wild flowers, and pristine alpine lakes became our home again. The Wind River Range is one of America's hidden gems, for certain. It isn't a national park and doesn't receive a ton of national recognition. But, there is no doubt that the Winds are one of the most spectacular ranges within the bounds of the United States.

So far we've had an amazing trek through the Wind River Mountains. I couldn't ask for more. Additionally, Analog, Wantsum, and I joined forces with another group of hikers, who I refer to as "The Maytals", Tootsie, Chimp, Spork, and Kipper. It's been great fun to hike with some new faces!

It seems like Analog is always walking through fields of flowers....

We came into Pinedale, Wyoming to resupply three days ago. And.... Here I am, still in Pinedale, WY. Unfortunately, a pretty serious storm system moved in just as we arrived in town and it seems to have no intention of going anywhere. As much as I'm itching to move forward, the entire week's forecast ranges from bad to really bad. Which, for most people, is an inconvenience, but for us, it is potentially dangerous. With 90 miles to make it from here to our next town, leaving now, or yesterday, would have meant hiking through low temperatures, high winds, rain, and much lightning. Not for one day, but potentially for days on end without opportunity to dry any clothing or equipment throughout the stretch. Hypothermic conditions, to say the least.

Once again, the Continental Divide has decided that She will be calling the shots out here.

We intend to hike out tomorrow morning. Anticipating a full day of stormy weather, but with the knowledge that it should taper off the following afternoon allowing us to dry out and continue onward.

But for now, it looks like another day of calorie loading and mediocre movies.

Analog's tent illuminated by headlight as he reviews the coming day's terrain.

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The Truth About It

I've got my head back in the game as well as my legs. Allow me to explain what I mean, as well as the lack of actual content here at hikernation.net in the past month.

The CDT, for a variety of reasons, was (is) kicking my butt. The late season snows here in Colorado, coupled with a relatively cool Spring, has led to some seriously difficult hiking conditions. I (and fellow hikers Analog and Wantsum) chose to take a good deal of time off and see if we could simply allow the snow to melt out. It worked.

However, in doing so, their were a few side effects. Physically, my body, specifically my feet, reverted to early trail conditions. That is, I began getting blisters and other such pains that I typically do not experience after the first month of hiking. The biggest issue involved my mental state and motivation. We would hike four or five days, and then take three off. During these off days we saw live music, mingled with locals, drank beer, ate great food, (spent too much money), and had a good time. However, such a schedule threw me into a strange cycle of hiking only to make it to the next town, as opposed to hiking for the sake of hiking.

I contemplated quitting this hike on many occasions throughout the last month.

Simply put, I don't believe the Continental Divide Trail is designed to be thru-hiked.

Yes, I understand, the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail were not "designed" to be thru-hiked either. In fact, the concept of hiking either of these trails in their entirety in a single season left those involved with the projects stunned. However, they are both completed trails and the weather windows on each of them is much more forgiving that here on the Continental Divide.

The Continental Divide Trail leaves would be thru-hikers with a potentially brutal and variable weather window as well as a variety of unpleasant route choices.

Having a late snow season here in Colorado has been tough. And it has also set most of us hikers behind our intended schedules. If things play out I still believe this trail can be finished this season -- if, we don't also get slammed with early snow in northern Montana. Secondly, the trail design itself can be tedious, physically and mentally. At times you will be tasked with endless road-walks, sometimes on forest roads, but often on the side of busy highways. On other times the "trail" will take the concept of hiking the divide very literally and put you on a high ridge line, without any actual trail, for days on end without barely dropping below treeline. The views may be spectacular, both to the east and west as you straddle the divide, but it leaves a hiker with no shelter or camp options within easy access. Add in the daily thunder storms and nightly rains, and it becomes a stress inducing route, often forcing us to dive down to lower elevation to avoid lightning strikes in the afternoon and to ensure safe camping at night (only then to again climb back up to elevation at a safer time to continue forward movement). It has become nearly impossible to estimate daily mileage and therefor plan food and logistics accordingly. Not only is the Continental Divide Trail difficult for us bipeds, but it's tough living for everyone. The amount of dead animals / animal remains we encounter on a daily basis is remarkable!

It's for these reasons, that I have been somewhat tight lipped concerning the progress of my trip.

It has been difficult for me to write about this hike and this trail without being certain as to how long I would continue along it.

I am glad to say that in the past ten days, things have been going much more smoothly. We are now in Steamboat Springs, CO, headed down out of the high elevations and into Wyoming. I've been on trail for two and a half months now, and my head is back in the game, ready for whatever may be next. With Colorado nearly behind us things should continue forward in a relatively smoother manner.

Have I mentioned though, it has been beautiful!